Text and photographs by Mary L. Peachin
Nov./Dec. 2010 Vol.15 No. 2
Gorging on salmon, the alpha black bear had Thornton Creek’s prime fish catching location. Perched on a boulder, she eyed schools of spawning Coho salmon migrating upstream. Patiently, she scanned the ripples. When the tide rose, exhausted fish would be at paw’s length. Feasting to bulk up for winter hibernation would be easier.
Off the tourist beat, the creek side boardwalk surrounding Thornton Creek Hatchery is “Do it yourself” bear viewing. Posted on a barb-wired chain link fence a welcome sign cautioned, “If you encounter a bear on the walk, enter our gate quickly, but do not let the dogs out!”
Fortunately, we did not have any unwelcome encounters.
Thornton Creek Hatchery is one of those “word of mouth” destinations. Driving between Vancouver Island’s cities of Nanaimo and Ucluelet, we paused briefly at a road side rest stop. An enthusiastic visitor raved about his recent bear viewing experience at Thornton Creek hatchery. He gave us his map with directions and told us, “Don’t miss it.”
Ucluelet, approximately 25 miles south of Tofino, the renowned western Vancouver Island beach town, is coming into its own. Its rugged shoreline, while lacking sandy beaches, is unsurpassed in beauty.
In 2000, Jim Martin, then known as Oyster Jim, a man noted for his over-sized oysters, hand built the two-kilometer Wild Pacific Trail, a groomed path that winds along the rugged Ucluelet coastline. The trail now has a second expansion. Every turn offers stunning Pacific Ocean views. Hikers can stop for lunch on strategically placed cedar benches overlooking bays and coves. Many turnouts, offering peaceful vistas, have memorial benches, some paying tribute to young fishermen
At low tide, the sights sometimes expand to include black bears and eagles, who share the shoreline during low tide as they hunt for crustaceans tangled in the beach’s seaweed. In the fall, when salmon head upriver to spawn, the bears turn their attention to fishing.
Salmon also draw fishermen to the region. Serious anglers time their fishing around the slack hours of the tide’s flood and ebb, when the ocean offers smaller sea life on which the fish feed.
A pod of orca killer whales compete for the same feed, rolling, breaching, and “sky hopping” in circles, to the delight of whale watchers. Resident gray and occasional humpbacks can also be sighted.
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve ends a few miles outside of Tofino. Established in 1970 as Canada’s first national park on the Pacific coast, there are campsites along the beach front. Long Beach is a popular place for surfing, particularly during winter’s high surf.
Back at the beach, folks can dig for clams or search for oysters and sea urchins in the tidal pools left by the outgoing waves. Kids hop from pool to pool, looking for brightly colored starfish and anemones.
Tofino is a destination known for its great beaches, surfing, salmon fishing, whale watching, winter storm watching, and seasonal bear viewing. Surfing competitions are held in big time waves. With water temperatures averaging 45 degrees, surfers wear 3-7 mm wetsuits.
Known as the “Surfing Capital of Canada,” six star professionals travel from around the world to compete in October’s O’Neill Coldwater tourney. They hope to win a $150,000 in prize money.
Perry Schmunk, General Manager of Long Beach Lodge, located five miles south of Tofino, explained the scoring complexities of tournament competition. “Within a 20-minute time span, surfers have to ride the tallest wave using the best form, bonus points count for tricks performed.”
Seasonal black Bear viewing is another popular Tofino adventure. There are no grizzlies on Vancouver Island. Browning Pass, a 37 foot yacht, is operated by lifetime Tofino resident Mike White. Cruising an hour to reach Gunner Inlet, west of Tofino Inlet, we searched the shoreline for black bears. Within minutes, a sow with two cubs lumbered out of the rainforest onto the rocks.
Adept at rolling boulders, the bears heartily ate the underside of boulders covered with mussels and barnacles. The bear’s long tongues scooped up scampering crabs. Idled next to the shoreline, we could hear the crunching of shells. Undisturbed by our presence, after an hour, satiated with photo images, we left them to their foraging.
Browning Pass yacht is also available for whale watching, touring, or dinner cruises.
We stayed in a charming two story cabin at Long Beach Lodge. When we weren’t walking puppy Scooter on the expansive semi-private beach, we pedaled along Tofino’s bike lane. We stopped at the Relais and Chateaux Wickinnish Inn to refresh wonderful memories.
Tofino is known for its rain and ferocious winter storms. We lucked and found Tofino better than ever, with mild, sunny weather to boot.
If you go:
Long Beach Lodge, www.longbeachlodgeresort.com
The Wickinnish, www.wickinn.com
Browning Pass Charters, www.browningpass.com
Sobo Restaurant, www.sobo.ca
Fishfull Thinking seafood, www.FishfullThinking.com