written and photographed by Mary L. Peachin
Nov 1997, Vol. 2 No. 2
The alpha bitch of the African wild dog pack appeared to be mortally wounded. After a recent kill, blood dripped from her nose congealing on her face and neck. Her pack of six dogs would frequently rise from their rest to nuzzle her. Another dog was limping. Their injuries indicated a fight to the death, their blood-covered necks and faces were symbolic of victory.
This endangered species, rarely seen, is one of the most vicious predators in Africa. The bitch dictates the beginning of a hunt by nuzzling, playing, and tail wagging until she works the pack into a frenzy. Finally setting off for the hunt, the dogs look like lovable housepets. They have large, round ears, with mustard, white and black-blotched coats, and white-tipped tails. Unlike a cheetah, who can run 60-mph for about 300 yards, these dogs chase their prey at speeds up to 60 mph. Several dogs hold the snout and ears of the prey, while the rest of the pack disembowels the animal. Dogs kill as a team and feed as a team, with the older dogs regurgitate food for pups.
The pack appeared to “sacked out” for the day so we continued our game drive to search for roan and sable antelopes, another species difficult to locate. Our guides, Allan and Tim, knew that our success would depend on finding them when they made their daily trek to the river for water. We were not alone at river’s edge, a pack of lions rested. Animals coming for water are an easier prey.
As our second land rover maneuvered down a steep embankment on the river’s edge, the lions “spooked,” untypically splashing across the river. As we waited for the antelope, we saw a greater kudu, with its magnificent curling spiral horns, duikers, a Lichtenstein’s hartebeest with its oval-ridged horns (no longer required for rutting,) pairs of the tiny, monogamous, Kirk’s Dikdik, and a herd of mean-looking cape buffalo.
When the antelope failed to show, we continued over a hill. Smoke that we had seen from a distance erupted into a wild brush fire. Although we were upwind, we turned back, returning to the location of the pack of wild dogs. The pack was still resting in the late afternoon. We wondered if the alpha bitch would be physically able to lead the pack on a hunt.
After a while, she rose to her feet, apparently recovered from her wounds. She began licking the dogs stirring a “feeding frenzy” before she set off down the dirt road track. We followed hoping that she would continue to use the track. As dusk approached, the bitch left the track and headed into the bush. Tim shifted into four-wheel drive and we continued to follow the dogs. The Land Rover brushed thorny acacia, bumped through holes, and climbed out of “karongas” (dry washes.)
The sun had set when we came to the realization that the pack was just going to the river for a drink of water. We had an exciting four wheel ride trying to find our way in the dark back to the dirt track.
A porcupine darted into the road as we made our way back to Camp Mwagusi. “Shower ready” sounded great after the day’s incredible game drive. Evening sundowners were served around a campfire in the “donga,” the dry sand river in front of the campsite.
Elephants prefer to drink fresh water, and they use their trunks to dig holes in the sand until they reach water level. We saw large herds watering not far from our campsite. Giraffes and other animals use these same watering holes after the elephants have finished drinking and depart the sandy riverbed.
Our cooks, named Tall and Too Tall, used a wood grill and Dutch ovens serving food that one might expect from a gourmet kitchen. They served a full breakfast that included eggs, bacon, porridge, pancakes, and baked bread. Lunch was typically grain or pasta salads, and a vegetable like stuffed potatoes with leeks. Dinner included a cold soup followed by chicken, lasagna, a quiche or coquette. The cuisine, which was primarily vegetarian, was tasty and creative.
Morning brought a familiar buzzing sound. I looked outside the tent to see two large swarms of Africanized honeybees in the high canopy of the acacia trees. How could this day match yesterday’s experience with the wild dogs?
But each day brought a new adventure, and this day we would witness the pecking order of devouring a recently killed Cape buffalo. After sighting buzzards circling, we arrived to witness a male lion feasting on the killed buffalo. Small silverback jackals and hyenas, saliva drooling from their mouths, paced the fringe of the kill, waiting for the lion to complete his meal. Occasionally, a hyena, a bonecrunching feeder, would grab a rib or leg and run into the bush. When the lion departed, the hyenas tried to chase away the jackals. When the hyenas were finished, the jackals would try to keep the eye- pecking buzzards at bay. Later in the day, the horns of the buffalo, covered with maggots, were the only evidence of the kill.
The remoteness of the Ruaha, Tanzania is due in part to the swarming tsetse fly. Their bite can be deadly to domestic cattle. Tsetse transmit trypanosomiasis, a form of sleeping sickness. When driving in rolling woodland areas, we found the tsetse to be a pest and constantly sprayed ourselves with insect repellent.
The animals of the Ruaha were not accustomed to seeing “bipeds” and vehicles. They were more skittish than those we observed in the Serengeti and Selous. Elephants frequently flared their ears to indicate a feeling of being threatened. On several occasions, elephants “false charged” our Land Rovers, veering away at the last moment. While we had no idea of the seriousness of the charge, Allan and Tim seem to be well aware as to when to step on the accelerator.
In addition to the excitement of seeing large herds of elands, the greater and lesser kudu, many impala, the rarely seen roan antelope, lions, elephants, giraffes, and many other animals and birds, the trees in the Ruaha are spectacular.
While we had seen a few Baobab, ‘mbuyu’ trees in the Selous, none were as majestic as those in the Ruaha. The massive silver trunks occasionally had holes large enough for us to stand inside. These holes serve as water reservoirs, and are home to beehives, and birds nests. Elephants like to strip the long fiber of the trunks, which are also used by the Africans for weaving or making rope. Spindly branches grow from the top of these ageless trees and produced a gourd-like fruit.
The combination of the Baobab, giant fig, tall acacia, tamarind, and clumps of palms provided us with beautiful silhouettes at sunset. The trumpeting of the elephants, drinking in the sand of the Mwagusi river, lulled us to sleep. And we would treasure the memories of seeing the African hunting dogs.