Written and photographed by Mary L. Peachin
Vol. 11 No. 8
Spanning the fertile valleys of southeastern Slovenia are a number of farms who have opened their gates to visitors, welcoming them to share in the lifestyle of the countryside. Many of these truck farmers harvest crops, churn cheese, age sausage, smoke meat, and ferment wine for their family consumption. Any crop abundance is trucked to a nearby local market.
Sharing life on the farm is an enjoyable and unique experience for visitors while providing additional income for the farmer. Farm stays, costing considerably less than a hotel, are rated with apple symbols, not unlike hotels are rated by a star system. Slovenia’s Tourist Board qualifies, rates, and inspects each farm, and they provide an easy process for making reservations.
Slovenia’s southeast wine country is a place where vineyards grow on hillsides above the valley’s farmland. Sixty kilometers southeast of the capital city of Ljubljana, the Seruga family offers a 4-apple farm stay.
Their dining area, warmed by a stone hearth, is the usual place to get acquainted, but Lili Seruga was baking a rum and walnut cake for afternoon visitors. We followed her into a cozy kitchen where we sipped homemade apple juice as we talked about farm life near the village of Ratez.
The Serugas used to store apple juice in barrels before they determined that bottles preserved the same quality of flavor for up to a year. The family also distills blueberry and green walnut brandy and apple and pear grappa. Nat, the younger of two sons, makes a wine using herbs.
Organic vegetables grown on the farm for cooking include potatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, beans, herbs, cabbage, carrots. Fields of corn are raised to feed the animals.
Lily can host 50 people in her dining room, and in a separate building, she has 11 charming guest rooms. Lily’s husband, Salvako, when not doing his farm chores, works as a German interpreter in local villages. Eva, Lili’s daughter, does the cooking.
Breakfast is typically bread, meat, and cheeses. Dinner is a fixed menu of homemade soup followed by an entrée of meat, rabbit, chicken, pork, or veal, and dessert. Trout, from a stream rippling through the farm, is served as a special delicacy.
To earn a four apples rating, the farm must meet Slovenia’s high standards. Each room must be a specific size and nicely furnished. It must include a private hallway and bathroom. The family must serve breakfast and dinner in a restaurant-type setting.
Staying at a farm affords the opportunity to explore the rural countryside. In the nearby village of Sentjerneje, we stopped to look at another 2-apple farm stay, Turisticna kmetia Pr Martinovh. The place was smaller than Seruga offering two basic rooms. It had the appearance of a more serious working farm. Owners Marta and Zan Krhin did not speak English so their daughter Urska showed us around. She welcomed us by inviting us into the wine cellar for some homemade cveček wine served with a plate of salami.
While the rooms were not on the same scale as Seruga, the hospitality was equivalent. When the Krhin’s are not taking care of guests, they are tending to their pigs, cattle, and horses. They harvest cveček grapes, and make their own cheese and salami. Guests can ride on horseback or in a horse-drawn carriage. Nearby excursions include visiting the Carthusian monastery in Pleterje, the Smarjske Toplice Health spa, or the Slovenska Konjjeniska Lipizzaner stud farm.
Passing the farm, we observed yearlings being carefully scrutinized by prospective buyers. Body definition and gait were examined before payment was made and the colt branded.
Along the road, taverns were grilling suckling pigs on barbecues. In the village of Ratez, we stopped at Gostilna Pod Klanckom restaurant to enjoy this treat of crispy pork with the locals.
Farm stays might be comparable to staying in a bed and breakfast. The difference is enjoying the country environment, and not having to share the same house with the family. At the same time, sharing the family meal provides a camaraderie. Staying on a farm gives a taste of local color and a unique experience for city dwellers.
For further information: Slovenian Tourist Board at www.slovenia.info