Text and photographs by Mary L. Peachin
Vol. 10 No. 9
Québec’s Outaouais
“If the state of Minnesota has 10,000 lakes, Outaouais must have a million”-Anonymous
Pristine lakes and rivers sparkle in Outaouais. Located in southwestern Québec, the landscape has been compared to Alberta’s Canadian Rockies. Yes, Outaouais (pronounced ootaway) is undiscovered, undisturbed, and unfamiliar to most travelers.
The Ottawa River divides Canada’s capitol city of Ottawa and Gatineau, the gateway city to Outaouais. After landing in Ottawa and before leaving Gatineau, we took time to enjoy a fine meal at Hilton Lac-Lemy’s Arôme and catch up on our sleep.
Outaouais’ cultural pride, one shared by the entire country, is the Canadian Museum of Civilization. Guide Michel White proudly credits architect Douglas Cardinal, who believes that “spirits hid in corners” for inspiring the curvature of this magnificent building. Its Grand Hall houses the country’s largest collection of First Nation totems. An entire floor is committed to the country’s history dating back to the arrival of the Norsemen in Newfoundland in 1000 A.D.
During our visit, we made a serendipitous stop at Gatineau’s city hall where we participated in the Rendez-vous des Saveurs de Outaouais. This annual event features a savory tasting by the city’s finest chefs.
High in the woods above the nearby village of Old Chelsea, Martin Paquette’s Le Nordik-Scandinavian Spa has a distant view of Ottawa and Parliament Hill. The spa’s Swedish relaxation philosophy recommends alternating between its Finnish sauna, steam bath, or bubbly hot tub followed by immersion in a cool pool or standing under an icy waterfall. The abrupt change in body temperature increases adrenaline stimulating endomorphs that increase relaxation. Of course, most clients then indulged themselves with a dreamy massage.
After spending time exploring the attractive city of Gatineau, we headed to the region’s 200 square mile Park, and its four major rivers. Rare white and common red pine and hemlock trees paralleled the Gatineau River next to a two-lane highway to the village of Wakefield.
Admiring autumn colors, we stopped to spelunked in Lafleche Cave, the largest natural cave in the Canadian Shield. Caver Mark-André Dorval, told of Lafleche’s unlikely discovery. In 1865, a bear trapper accidentally stumbled into its opening. Unexplored for more than 50 years, the cave was opened to public in 1973. Little is known about either the history or geography of the cave. Unfortunately, over the years, its stalactites have been seriously vandalized. In 1995, the City of Val-des-Monts re-opened the cave, which is being restored.
350 acre Lafleche Aerial Park offers an adventurous challenge course of zip lines connected by 82 suspended rope ladders and hanging wood plank or wire bridges. Thrilled and fearful screams echoed above the lake and through the surrounding forest as visitors zip above the tree line.
The highway may be faster, a twenty-five minute drive from Ottawa, but the 1907 Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield Steam Train is the scenic route to the village of Wakefield. The hour and a half ride winds along the Gatineau River.
The river is a perfect place to paddle a canoe or kayak under a bright red covered bridge. In 1838, a Scot named William Fairbairn built a water-powered grist mill along the La Pĕche River. Today, the renovated flour mill and grain silo has been converted into The Wakefield Mill Inn & Spa. Three-foot concrete walls and a rich history add charm to the Inn.
Watching the steam engine chug out of the village, we dined riverside enjoying the extraordinary cuisine of Chef Bernard Sanquer’s at Bistro Aux Mille Délices.
Before heading to the Laurentians in the southeastern part of the region, we stopped to visit the Fairmont Kenauk near Montebello. Guide Galia Valillancourt toured us through a hatchery that breeds trout planted in the dozens of lakes on the property. Fairmont Hotels Kenauk rents private châteaux’s; each with its own lake in 100 square miles of isolated, pristine wilderness. Elegantly rustic, each châteaux includes a boat, kayak, and canoes. Activities include fishing, hiking, biking, and even bow hunting. Attracting guests from miles away, Aux Chantignoles gourmet brunch in the nearby five-star Hotel Fairmont Le Château Montebello completed our journey.
Outaouais, what is a well kept secret for those who love the outdoors. It won’t be long before it’s discovered.
If you go:
Outaouais Tourism www.outaouais-tourism.ca
Air Canada provides service to Ottawa: www.aircanada.com or 800.247.2262
Hilton Lac-Leamy www.hilton.lacleamy.com
Canadian Museum of Civilization www.civilization.com
Rendez-vous des Saveurs de Outaoais www.rendezvousdessaveurs.com
Lafleche Adventure www.aventurelafleche.ca
Le Nordik-Scandinavian Spa www.lenordik.com
Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield Steam Train 800.871.7246 www.steamtrain.ca
Wakefield Mill Inn 888.567.1838 www.wakefieldmill.com
Aux Mille Délices 721 Riverside Road Wakefield 819.459.3223
Fairmont Kenauk at Château Montebello and Fairmont Le Château Montebello 800.567.6845 www.fairmont.com
The Laurentians: Heartland of Québec
City photo courtesy of Laurentian Tourism
The Laurentians 14,000 square miles of hills and mountains, plains and valley are the heartland of Québec. Tourists, from as faraway as Asia, come just to view the majestic colors of autumn, while ski enthusiasts wait for the first snowfall to hit the slopes of Mount Tremblant. Known as the Laurentides to Québeckers, the area is nature as its best, a place for outdoor lovers.
In 1849, Jean-Baptiste Dufresne pioneered the area located north of Montréal to the base of the Laurentians. Almost a century later, his grandson opened a 20 room lakeside inn. The family tradition continued as Hotel La Sapiniere until the existing, expanded 70 room property was sold to the Fenzar family. The hotel is conveniently located near the trailhead of Laurentians’ linear park, “Le P’tit Train du Nord.”
Father Antoine Labelle is credited with the concept of building the railway, Le P’tit Train du Nord in 1891. This opened the way for industrial development in the Laurentians. A century later, Canadian Pacific railway began transporting the first skiers from Montréal to Mont Tremblant.
In 1996, “Le P’tit Train du Nord” was converted into a 120-mile linear park for bicycle riders, hikers, and cross country skiers. Today, inns, bistros, and galleries line the scenic trail where it passes through picturesque villages. In autumn, the bright red sugar and yellow Norwegian maple leaves scatter the dirt graded trail as it winds 16 miles between Val-David and St.-Agathe. The trail passes Lake Raymond and Val-Morin paralleling the rapids of the du Nord River. Many trail users dine on the patio of Bistro La Halte near Val-David.
Further north, Mont Tremblant, best known as a ski resort, is a multi-sport destination for all seasons. Intrawest, a renown Canadian ski and golf corporation, has poured more than $400 million into the area founded by Philadelphia industrialist Joe Ryan, a man who envisioned a ski destination for Americans in the Laurentians. The Fairmont Tremblant is conveniently located at the north base of the mountain. Its understated elegance blends comfortably into the colorful ski village.
Stephane Neault guided us on a Mega Adventure’s ATV tour. Revving up our motors, we splashed through muddy pools (remaining from the previous daylong rainfall) along the rutty Chemin du Jackrabbit trail. After cycling 10 miles, we paused for a break on a small wooden pier overlooking Heart Lake. Deep in the heart of St. Faustin Ecological Park, the solitude among the autumn colors was special.
Le Géant is one of Tremblant’s par 72 championship course. Designed by Thomas McBroom, fairways are carved into a series of sculpted mountainside plateaus. Ski trail emblem markers designate double black diamond championship tees to the shorter green tee markers. The award winning course is one of two located in Mont Tremblant, the other being Le Diable.
Riding Flying Mile chairlift, we luged 370 yards down the slope of Mont Tremblant steering a three-wheeled luge. The cart allows speed control (maximum 35 mph) down a curving slalom-like mile long paved track. The concept, designed in New Zealand, is the only public luge operating in North America.
Most visitors specifically head to the Laurentians to ski, golf, bicycle, or watch the autumn colors. The beauty of the Laurentians is a landscape not to miss.
If you go:
Hotel La Sapinière Val-David: 800.567.6635 www.sapiniere.com
Le P’tit Train du Nord : 888.893.8356 lepetittraindunord.com
Fairmont Tremblant : 819.681.7000 www.fairmont.com/tremblant
Le Géant Golf : www.golftremblant.com
Pause Plein Air Bicycles : 819.322.6880 Val David
The Laurentians : for information or reservations call 800.561.6673