written and photographed by Mary L. Peachin
May 2004, Vol. 8 No. 7
The Madison is back! Tragically a decade ago, whirling disease decimated the population of rainbow trout in one of Montana’s most popular river fisheries. Brown trout and White fish were successful is combating the parasite, but rainbows had a long and tragic struggle. Happily, the worse is over and the rebound of both fish and return of the fisher has bordered on incredible.The Madison is back! Tragically a decade ago, whirling disease decimated the population of rainbow trout in one of Montana’s most popular river fisheries. Brown trout and White fish were successful is combating the parasite, but rainbows had a long and tragic struggle.
Happily, the worse is over and the rebound of both fish and return of the fisher has bordered on incredible.Another day Luke and I drove the scenic route through West Yellowstone crossing the border into Idaho to fish the blue-ribbon waters of Henry’s Fork of the Snake River. Luke and I met up with guide Bob Wills of East-West Outfitters.
As we floated from Warm Springs to Ashton Reservoir in Bob’s Hyde drift boat, the weather wasn’t as gentle as the previous day. Tossing a fly into the wind was almost futile. But fishing is only part of the magic and the beauty of a day of river drifting through magnificent landscapes.Those wonderful days spent floating and fly fishing in two great fisheries were made even more special by the incredible accommodations and warm hospitality offered at Papoose Creek Lodge. Northern Californians Cindy and Roger Lang have invested a lot of time, energy, and money into buying a wide spanse of riverfront ranch land edging up to the Madison range. “Eco” is the operative word for the privacy of the ranch and the small lodge hidden behind a vale along Highway 287, south of Cameron.
The five room lodge offers three pioneer-style cabins with an equal number of friendly, eager-to-serve staff. Cindy has autographed the rustic look of the place with her impeccable taste: antique fishing creels, tasteful artifacts, and an immense hand-carved storyboard beam separating the kitchen from the living-dining room.Evening entertainment might be a lecture about grizzlies by Steve Prim, a biologist who lives up the road in Ennis, or the reality nature of a black bear or mule deer wandering across the front lawn that overlooks a trout-stocked pond. Chef Jeff Miller is serving up another four-course dinner. He knows his cooking, and no one is going to leave Papoose shedding any weight.
Each day guests are offered the choice of hiking, rafting, fishing, horseback riding, or just relaxing on the porch or submerging in the lodge’s hot tub. Meals are planned around the guest’s daily schedule, a packed lunch is provided. For a change of pace, a horse-drawn hay wagon loads everyone up driving them to the picnic grounds for an old-fashion campfire barbecue once a week.
Papoose Creek Lodge may attract fishers to its blue-ribbon fishery –just a fly toss away from the Madison River. But, add horseback riding, hiking, canoeing, wildlife viewing, and Chef Jeff Miller’s fine cuisine. It all combines into one luxurious experience.
Papoose Creek Lodge 888-674-3030 or 406-682-3030 [email protected] or go to www.papoosecreek.com