written and photographed by Jeffrey Peachin and Kristin Byrd with cover photo by Laura Cholodenko
Dec 1999, Vol. 4 No. 3
The snow crunched under our cross-country skis breaking the silence of the wilderness. Gliding along the powdered trail toward Dewey Point in Yosemite National Park, our rhythmic poling was occasionally interrupted with a “crash.” Nordic skis have less width than downhill models, and they lack the sharp edges that make it easier for downhill skiers to navigate. Falling down is the simplest way to stop a descent on Nordic skis, and we all took a turn crashing into the snow. In fact, a few novices in our group of six (some had contemplated taking lessons) broke the silence with some ungraceful landings. Righting themselves, they dusted off the accumulated snow and continued skiing along the trail.
We had left the confines of cramped office environments to visit some of the world’s most photographed peaks, specifically those favorite Ansel Adam’s images of El Capitan and Half Dome. The snowfall of winter transforms this popular California destination into peaceful solitude.
Yosemite National Park includes 1,200 square miles of land along the central Sierra Nevada mountains in eastern California. There are alpine forests, three groves of giant Sequoias, and in Yosemite Valley, impressive waterfalls cascade from the unusual rock formations of the famous cliffs.
There is something special about Yosemite without the hoards of campers and hikers. Thousands of folks submit their names to a lottery drawing for selection of the privilege of hiking and camping along the six-day Trans-Sierra trail. In winter, there is no lottery or crowd; the 8-10 mile hut to hut trail is one of the ultimate camping trips. Another favorite trail is the 11-mile route to Glacier Point. A 20-bed dorm-like accommodation offers a great view of Half Dome.
Driving to our starting point at Badger Pass ski area, we chuckled when the snow-covered roads slowed our speed to that of summertime traffic. But, there was no traffic; we were in control of the speed of our car and simply respecting the winter road conditions.
Badger Pass Ski Area, the center of winter activity in Yosemite, is a four and a hour drive southeast of San Francisco. Novices can enjoy easy downhill runs, and the “bunny hill” makes this a great place for a family outing. Lift tickets are an affordable $28.00. The ski area is also the trailhead for many cross-country and snowshoeing trails.
Our group wasn’t ready for long distances, so we opted to stay in Yosemite West, a community just outside park boundaries, near Wawona road on highway 41. We could overnight there and still be close to Badger Pass and the hundreds of miles of trails for Nordic skiers and snowshoe enthusiasts. The next day we would ski to Dewey Point, which is located on the rim of Yosemite Valley.
Slumps of snow identified the location of streams, and clusters of alder trees marked the side of the trail. The rough terrain of summer was now soft, rolling, crystal-white hills. Two hours later we sat on the ledge at Dewey Point looking squarely at the face of El Capitan. We marveled at the magnificence of this world-class rock-climbing destination.
Several winters ago we had spent a weekend in a rustic canvas cabin in Curry Village. At that time the tent cabins were not winterized and we found that a canvas tent and wood frame on a platform did not offer enough protection from the cold. There were other choices of places to stay including the more upscale Ahwahnee and Wawona hotels, both national historic landmarks. The Yosemite Lodge is also popular and offers reasonable rates.
This time we decided to stay in a modest cabin outside the Park on the western edge of Yosemite, about seven miles from Badger Pass. Our cottage, with its ragged curtains, was warm and comfy. We enjoyed cooking on the wood-burning stove, sitting around the fireplace, and playing games of pictionary late into the night. We had the comforts of home with Yosemite in our backyard.
After several days of cross-country skiing, our skills improved dramatically. The crashes were fewer, and the solitude greater. Before we knew it, our escape was over. Heading back to San Francisco, we took one last glimpse back as the sun was fading in the sky. Its ray reflected a brilliant red on the dramatic face of El Capitan and Half Dome, a full moon rose behind the peaks. While Yosemite National Park beckons year round, its quiet solitude is spectacular during winter.
For further information: Go to www.nps.gov/yose/info.htm.