June, 2013, Vol. 17, No.10
Text and photos by Mary L. Peachin
Umkomanzi, Zulu for “watering place of the whales” is home to South Africa’s newest marine protected areas, Aliwal Shoal.
Located south of Durban, the Shoal, which is named after an 1800 shipwreck, is more popular as a scuba destination for divers eager to encounter the ragged-tooth shark. Between June and November, there is the opportunity to encounter as many as a dozen sharks between Raggie’s Cove and Cathedral.
Durban, after Johannesburg and Cape Town, is the third largest city and busiest port in South Africa. The city’s warm subtropical climate and Indian Ocean beaches make it a popular destination for tourists.
As part of the renovation infrastructure for the 2010 FIFA world cup, the Golden Mile between Ushaka Marine World and Moses Mabhida Stadium, was expanded as a beach tourist destination. Durban is also a gateway to the national parks and historic sites of the Zulu Kingdom.
Along the forest canopy of KwaZulu-Natal’s Dolphin Coast is Zimbali—Zulu for “valley of flowers.” The sanctuary, thirty two miles north of Durban, in this unspoiled region is a nature lover’s wonderland of lush vegetation and the Indian Ocean’s cool breezes.
Opened in 2010, the African classical architecture of Fairmont’s Zimbali Lodge offers two distinct properties. Surrounded by 125 acres of coastal forest reserve, the estate been designated as a conservation area in order to protect its rich variety of local flowers and vegetation. Pathways and wooden viewing decks allow guests an opportunity to interact with nature. Zimbali has several natural spring water lakes which provide habitat to more than eighty five species of bird, butterflies, and indigenous plant life. The forest reserve is inhabited by bush buck, blue duiker, bush baby, vervet monkeys, banded mongoose and wild pigs.
A Tom Weiskopf designed manicured 18-hole championship golf course is a treat and challenge for any golfer. Its 19th Hole can be enjoyed in the exclusive clubhouse of Zimbali Country Club.
Prior to British colonial rule, Voortrekkers or Dutch Boers, who established the Republic of Natalia in 1838, had been known to mistreat the Zulu population. The governor of Cape Colony sent Captain Charlton Smith to Port Natal with a force to re-establish British rule.
During the night of May 23, 1842 the British attacked the Voortrekker camp at Congella. When the attack failed, the British returned to defend their own camp. Dick King, a local trader and his aide Ndongeni escaped the blockade by riding fourteen days to Grahamstown, a distance almost four hundred miles to obtain reinforcements. Help arrived in Durban twenty days later, the Voortrekkers retreated, but conflict with the Zulu population led to the evacuation of Durban. Under military pressure, the Afrikaners finally accepted British annexation in 1844.
After a British governor was appointed to the region, many settlers from Europe and the Cape Colony emigrated. The British established a sugar cane industry in the 1860s. When farm owners had difficulty attracting Zulu laborers, the British brought thousands of indentured laborers on twenty five-year contracts from India.
The modern city of Durban follows the shoreline of the Indian Ocean coastline. Most residents enjoy its warm waters from downtown North Beach. The city speaks to its history with a significant Indian population.
Victoria Street Market, which opened in the 1870s, blends Indian and African culture. Spices and incense scent the larger ornate structure where almost 200 stalls display their wares. “The Vic” bustles as shoppers and tourists buy food and spices from barrels. There is a fish market downstairs.
Durban’s Indian community on the African continent is the largest outside of Asia.
The population has an impact on the character of the city and its open air markets. The visitor can become familiar with color, smells, bold materials and characteristic bartering. In addition to food, there are saris, scarves, arts and crafts, woven baskets, beaded dolls and animals, oriental ceramics, and Chinese wholesale goods.
Moses Mabhida Stadium, built for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, is architecturally imposing. While it is now used as a venue for concerts and other events, it is truly a tribute to the game of soccer. A final impression of Durban’s welcome and goodbye to visitors is the modern King Shaka International Airport. Replacing Durban International Airport, it was designed by Osmond Lange Architects to the tune of approximately $900 million dollars.
Durban may not receive the numbers of tourists that visit Cape Town, the wine country or flower route, or Johannesburg. It a clean city with wide boulevards with a beautiful landscape along the Indian Ocean.
Part IV of a Series
If you go:
Fairmont Hotels, www.fairmont.com/zimbali-lodge
South African Airways, www.flysaa.com
South African Vacations, www.flysaavacations.com
Victoria Street Market, www.sa-venues.com/things-to-do/kwazulunatal/victoria-street-market