written and photographed by Mary L. Peachin
Oct 2004, Vol. 9 No. 1
The Amalfi Coast is best described as 30-miles of frequently traffic jammed hairpin switchbacks between the cities of Sorrento and Salerno. Driving along the Lattari Mountains are gorgeous, towering views of the Bay of Salerno. Jagged limestone, grey and burnt sienna cliffs rise thousands of feet over terraced olive and lemon groves. An equal distance below the road, crystal clear waters lap gently over black sandy beaches.
Small pathways, some with stairways, connect the villages of Amalfi, Ravello, and Positano, making the area a popular place for hiking tours.
Considered one of the most beautiful coastlines in Europe, Amalfi ranks high on the destination list for lovers. Easily identifiable honeymooners can be spotted clasping hands, kissing, or just gazing lovingly at one another.
Saddle-worn from nine days of bicycle touring in Puglia (the spur of the boot in Southern Italy)with Ciclismo Classico, we chose to indulge ourselves by recuperating with several days of ultimate relaxation on the Amalfi Coast.
Il San Pietro di Positano hotel has always been a destination for lovers. Founder Carlo Cinque grew up in the family’s Hotel Miramare in Positano. In 1962, he bought a rocky cliff a mile from Positano then diligently chiseled (for 8 years) a place of his own into the limestone cliff. When his passion was complete, he welcomed guests to a 33-room villa. Today the hotel has expanded to 60 rooms and is operated by the third generation of Cinque’s, Virginia and her sons Vito and Carlo. They continue to design and renovate the property to contemporary standards. Il San Pietro is now recognized as one of the ultimate in luxury hotels, an architectural wonder.
The property is resplendent with colorful, delicate terra cotta Neapolitan ceramics and exquisite antique furniture. Mesmerizing ocean views are featured everywhere. A small elevator carries guests from the roadside reception area descending past the lobby area 250 feet down to a black sandy beach. During summer months, most guests spend their days lounging on the beach or sipping a limoncello around the pool.
A fully stocked bar attracts the thirsty who make their way to the front of one of the dramatic caves along the beachside promontory. A level above, guests can lounge by the lap-size swimming pool. Oversized rooms with vine-covered balconies are landscaped with plants and multi-colored cascading bougainvillea. Many room offer gorgeous views of the sea and the colorful vertical village of Positano. Exotic plants and flowers wind throughout the lobby and dining areas where chile ristas, plump as roma tomatoes, hang from the ceiling.
Gourmet cuisine is creatively presented, and tastes as good as it looks. Every detail and attention is paid to service. A combo plays music during dinner hours inspiring couples to spontaneously whirl around an improvised ceramic dance floor.
While the property has been a hideaway for the rich and famous for decades, lap top computers blink with the latest Wi-Fi wireless Internet service. The computers are offered as a courtesy (complimentary usage for 30-minutes), which minimizes the urges of email junkies.
Torrential rains followed by heavy fog prevailed during our fall visit. After a hot summer drought, locals welcomed wet and rainy weather. We didn’t let it interfere with our exploring.
A 10-minute van shuttles guests to the quaint village of Positano. The picturesque village is a shopper’s paradise. And, if you aren’t on one of the popular Amalfi hiking trips, you can count on plenty of exercise just wandering up and down the steep narrow (non-vehicular) pathways. The colorful dome of Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta is one of the village’s primary attractions, but most come to shop for colorful ceramics, jewelry, or fashion.
We took refuge from the rain savoring seafood pasta at longtime establishment Chez Black located beachside in front of Spiagga Grande (or the grand beach). Next door is another well known eatery, Tres Sorellos.
Since 1890, the Iaccarino family has operated Don Alfonso, a Michelin 3-star restaurant. Located in S. Agata, the mountains have vistas of both the Gulf of Naples and Sorrento. The restaurant is located about a 45-minute drive from Positano. The whole Iaccarino family “works the dining room” personally ensures that every diner is enjoying his or her top-notch cuisine. This is as good as it gets! While the pricing may be equivalent, it’s worth every Euro.
Don Alfonso’s wine cellar dates back centuries. Descending narrow, uneven stairs, dust-covered wine bottles are stacked in nooks carved into ancient limestone walls. The steep steps lead to a well and a room where cheese is aged for a minimum two years. Fruits and vegetables are grown at “Le Peracciole”, the restaurant’s organic farm. Olives are harvested by hand and cold pressed.
Climbing the winding road passing through the village of Amalfi, Ravello’s small alleys, stairways, and covered passages cling to the limestone cliffs of Dragon Hill. The village’s cathedral, dedicated to San Pantaleone, was built in 1086. During summer months, concerts are held in the gardens of Villa Rufolo, built in the late 1200’s. Smaller than Positano, Ravello attracts guests with several luxury hotels and fine restaurants. We ate lunch at the popular trattorio Cumpa Cosimo.
But it was at Il San di Pietro where we momentarily indulged ourselves in the former playground of the rich and famous: Gregory Peck, Liza Minelli, Marcello Mastroianni, and simple lovers like ourselves.
If you go:
Il San Pietro di Positano www.ilsanpietro.it or [email protected]
Don Alfonso www.donalfonso.com or [email protected]
www.ravello.it/aziendaturismo or [email protected]
www.amalficoast.it
Some of the best advice given us was not to drive the narrow hairpin roads. This was especially helpful following landslides caused by the rains. Our driver’s local knowledge took us along detours of narrow passageways, some barely accommodated one-way traffic much less cars going both directions. Call Luigi De Martino Limousine www.starnet.it or [email protected] (ask for GiamPaolo)
Rome is 3 and 1/2 hours from Positano or 1-2 hours (depending on traffic) from Naples. Overnighting at the Rome Airport Hilton or Hilton Calaveri, about halfway downtown, makes for an easier arrival and departure.
Hilton Cavaleri or Hilton Airport: www.cavaleri.hilton.it or www.hilton.com.
The Hilton Cavaleri has a panoramic view overlooking the Eternal City and a dramatic view of the dome of St. Peter’s. Its 2-star Michelin La Pergola features the cuisine of Chef Heinz Beck and is known as “a restaurant in a hotel not a hotel restaurant.” A more economical alternative is Il Giardino dell’Uliveto, the restaurant serves delightful food with a decor featuring bonsai olive trees.